31st October - 1st November 2009
NASHIK (without a nose) is so called because according to legend Surpankha (Ravan's sister) had her nose cut off by Lakshman and the appendage flung in this area. Ten year old Yash Kedia wanted to know if they ever found the nose thereafter....Although Kedia’s penchant for idiocy is legendary he ultimately manages to soothe my unreserved exasperation by cheering up boring monologues with astute logic.
On a recent visit to Nashik the children (aged 7 to 13) years of our ‘Know Your Environment’ group were subject to a lackluster presentation by the Curator of the Numismatics Museum cataloguing the progress of economy from the barter system to present day concept of money value.
Kedia however had apparently been engrossed at looking at the beautiful oil paintings and a model of a really old fashioned mint housed in the museum. In fact as I myself stared at these paintings I could almost hear the clinking of the gold ‘ashrafis’ and ‘mohurs’, the silver ‘rupaiya’ and copper ‘tamb’ coin while the Curator droned on in the background. On hearing Kedia abrupt interruption I turned to oppose him when I realized his query was an exciting one. He wanted to know if counterfeit coins existed in the Mughal Era. The result was a lively discussion of the various possibilities.
Our foray into the Nashik Jail put to rest thirty-five young minds with fertile imaginations expecting to encounter the likes of Hitler’s concentration camp or perhaps view a variation of Chinese water torture methods or maybe even watch a body drawn over some medieval torture wheel.
The children were relieved to find that this correctional facility which houses 2,600 inmates provides the prisoners humane opportunities to get back on track. Eleven year old Manav Mehta’s intelligent questions enabled the Senior Jailor to explain how the facility was Government aided by providing orders for various products like iron beds, stands, shoes, furniture and so on and so forth. In fact a well coordinated correctional facility could be completely self-sufficient with inmate committees to oversee cooking, cleaning, gardening and production.
The Sita Gufa escapade was truly exciting as everyone had to walk single file bent double through the narrow passage into the cave where Sita would hide when Ram and Lakshman scavenged the jungle for fruits and berries. According to our unassuming guide Raju legend had it that when five ‘rishis’ discovered her lair they scorned her actions as unbecoming of the wife of a powerful Solar Dynasty King. A humiliated Sita cast a spell, turning the ‘rishis’ into the ‘five banyan tress’ or ‘paanchvati’.
Raju then marched our group rapidly through the traffic down to the banks of the Godavari River one of the four sacred spots of the Kumbh Mela. Countless people clad in colourful clothes swarmed around us participating in various holy rituals.
The hubbub us was deafening and we strained our ears to listen to the anecdote Raju narrated which tells of how during the churning of the mighty ocean of milk by the Gods and Demons for the divine nectar of immortality four of its drops fell from the container or ‘kumbh’ on four spots – Nashik, Allahabad Haridwar, Ujjain. These four places became pilgrimage sites for millions of devout Hindus when planet Brihaspati or Jupiter moves into the zodiac sign of Aquarius or Kumbh.
Sula Wines was over-hyped and over-sanitized. The use of the technically evolved wine making pneumatic machines for wine pressing and cork-screw caps for wine bottles the joy of grape stomping and aging of mature wines in bottles sealed with oak corks is fast becoming a lost art.
The children were all below 18 and were not permitted to taste the wine on the estate. To alleviate their disappointment we purchased a bottle of white wine for after dinner decadence at our lodgings located in a temple complex! The entire horde gathered together in one room and amidst rousing cheers swigged the thimbleful of wine I had poured into out sized plastic cups for each one. The plot of wine tasting without their parent’s consent was more appealing than the actual taste of it.
The Gargoti Museum left us wonderstruck as we gawped goggle eyed at the dazzling minerals and stones.
Our final port of call was the Pandav Lena Caves ostensibly a heritage monument protected by ASI. However what was truly evident was the monumental ineptitude of the 3 ‘babu’ bureaucrats at the booking office and the Conservation Assistant one Mr. Mangrule we tried to contact.
Besides issuing the tickets (3 ‘babus’ issuing 5 tickets for the adults, children go free!) they refused our request to conduct the tour as they could not possibly leave the booking counter unmanned. It would be worth noting that besides our troupe there were precisely five other visitors. We were handed an information leaflet only because I insisted and brusquely informed to buzz off. Oh and I was roughly asked by one of the ‘babus’ Bonekar by name to furnish his office with a name list of the children. Precaution against a possible terror attack?
This Buddhist Cave cluster hewn in rock almost 2500 years ago is located atop a small hillock away from the distraction of the nearby villages but close enough for the Buddhist monks of yester years to visit during fair weather and spread the teachings of Lord Buddha.
Most of the caves sadly lie in ruins. Still visible is a typical ‘Chaitya’ or prayer hall with a stupa at the rear end of the elongated cave with pillars running along both sides from entrance to the back of the cave and a central open space, the wooden lining for the arched cave ceiling having obviously perished. We explored some of the ‘viharas’ with stone hewn beds the Buddhist monks used for respite. The façade of some of the caves indicate how carpenters used wooden etching styles on rocks.
Water tanks or ‘pani podis’ which were used for drinking water and bathing in the cave complex was contaminated with plastic bottles and other rubbish. Young Aditya felt the jaunt was such a let down especially when he observed a visitor to the cave scribbling his name on the stone wall while the 3 so-called office-bearers who had now conveniently deserted their office lay sprawled around the rocks gossiping with each other.
However where the ASI authorities failed miserably the children more than compensated as they marveled the outstanding gift of the master craftsmen of long ago working with just a chisel and hammer into the heart of the mountain, mapping in their mind’s eye the drama to be frozen in stone.
It would be deficient of me to leave out the customary gang wars (mainly boys versus the girls) that erupted periodically amongst our mob and the routine stuff about he likes her and she likes him. But what tickled me really and totally pink was the cozy tête-à-tête I had with my teenage girls about the birds and the bees and humans too. And I just cannot stop beaming when I think of two of my ‘desi dads’ (they were the parent volunteers) gamely supervising toilet drill of 15 rowdy boys.









